Brussels - Home of The European Parliament

[Osman Patel]

General Overiew

The European Parliament has found its ideal home in Brussels (Bruxelles in French, Brussel in Flemish). This inland capital city of Belgium, bordered by The Netherlands, Germany, Luxembourg and France, is a multi-cultural and multi-lingual city at the very heart of the EU. Indeed, it claims with some justification to be the ‘Capital of Europe’.


Belgium celebrated its 175th anniversary of statehood during 2005,
but the history of the nation’s capital goes back much further. Brussels was already a thriving trade centre by the Middle Ages. The Bruxellois have inherited the wisdom of ancestors who lived under Roman, Spanish, Austrian, French, Dutch and German domination – their country winning independence only in 1830. Today, Brussels boasts a highly skilled and adaptable workforce. Despite the population of Belgium numbering only 10.2 million, with Brussels itself just under a million-strong, the Bruxellois have the ability to compensate for their small numbers with skilled diplomacy, compromise and negotiation. These striking traits are followed closely by a highly intellectual and offbeat sense of humour, underpinned by a strong sense of the bizarre. This may help explain why the Surrealist art movement, pioneered by René Magritte, took off in Brussels. A playful and irreverent approach to life is also manifest in the Belgian love affair with the comic strip, popularised worldwide with Hergé’s boy hero, Tintin.


Language is a complex and serious issue in bilingual (French and
Flemish) Brussels, as well as being a focus of communal tensions, more of which surfaced in the early part of 2005. Some 85% of native Bruxellois speak French as their first language. Ironically, Brussels is also capital of Flemish-speaking Flanders. However, the fierce linguistic debate also takes a lighter form, with constant puns and word games forming a complex web. For instance, while a top-notch restaurant is called Comme Chez Soi (Just Like Home), a less prestigious establishment calls itself Comme Chez Moi (Just Like My Home), with more than a twist of irony.


Yet the image of the city suffers abroad, due to its very
diversity, as well as the self-effacing nature of its quirky inhabitants, too modest to blow their own trumpet. Brussels has no symbol to rival the sky scraping Eiffel Tower, aside from the tiny but famed Manneken-Pis, a statuette of a urinating boy.


The first visit to Brussels, uncoloured by expectations, is
therefore all the more rewarding. Narrow cobbled streets open suddenly into the breathtaking Grand-Place, with its ornate guild houses, impressive Town Hall and buzzing atmosphere. It would be difficult to find a more beautiful square in the whole of Europe. Bars, restaurants and museums are clustered within the compact city centre, enclosed within the petit ring, which follows the path of the 14th-century city walls.


The medieval city is clearly defined by its narrow, labyrinthine
streets, making it easy to distinguish the later additions, such as Léopold II’s Parisian-style boulevards (Belliard and La Loi) today lined with embassies, banks and the grand apartments of the bourgeoisie and close to the glitzy new EU quarter. The working class still congregates in the Marolles district, in the shadow of the Palais de Justice, although this area is on the up-and-up. New immigrant communities are settling in the rundown area around the Gare du Nord. Neighbouring communes, St-Gilles and Ixelles, draw an arty crowd with their ‘in’ shops and restaurants. These are worth the trek, if only to glimpse some of Brussels’ finest Art Nouveau buildings, the style developed by Bruxellois Victor Horta, the son of a shoemaker.


With a pleasant temperate climate (warm summers and mild winters)
and a host of sights and delights to entertain, Brussels offers the visitor a great deal more than just beer and chocolate (although excelling in both).

Sightseeing - overview


With the exception of the Grand-Place and the narrow streets nearby,
sightseeing in Brussels is relatively crowd free. Brussels offers a remarkable choice of some 90 museums, some tiny and some international in scale. All museums have bilingual labelling (French and Dutch/Flemish). English is not always used but English-language leaflets are usually available. In recent years, signposting (for drivers and pedestrians) of Brussels’ top museums and major monuments has been improved, making sightseeing even easier.


The city’s architecture is often breathtaking, especially in and around the historic Grand-Place,
which is easily covered on foot and is home to a cluster of alluring museums dedicated to topics as diverse as beer, chocolate and lace-making. Certain sights and sensations are obligatory, such as glimpsing the trickle of water flowing from the Manneken-Pis and making a wish while touching the ghoulish bronze statue of Charles-Everard de T’Serclaes – said to bring good luck.


However, the city has much more to offer. The public transport
system works well enough to safely deposit the walk-weary tourist in Brussels’ distinct districts: the modern Quartier des Institutions Européennes; aristocratic Sablon, near the Place Royal; vibrant working-class Marolles, south of Grand-Place; St-Gilles, with its splendid examples of Victor Horta’s Art Nouveau architecture; and Heysel, far out to the northwest, with its memories of the triumph of the 1958 Exhibition and the Stade Roi Baudoin, site of the 1985 Heysel stadium disaster.

Sightseeing - Key Attractions

Grand-Place A web of narrow cobbled streets suddenly opens out into the vast Grand-Place – economic and social heart of Brussels since the Middle Ages. The array of filigree Gothic buildings is dominated by the asymmetrical Hôtel de Ville, built in the 15th century. Its 96m (315ft) spire is topped with a gilded copper statue of St Michael. Opposite the Town Hall and almost as grand is the Maison du Roi, commissioned in 1515 and faithfully rebuilt in the 1890s. Sometime pied-à-terre of the Hapsburg monarchy, the building now hosts the Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles and its small collection includes tapestries and altarpieces, as well as the costumes worn by the Manneken-Pis. A series of lavish Guildhouses complete the rectangle of the square – number 10 still houses the guild of brewers, Maison de l’Arbre d’Or. Events, displays and markets are often held in the Grand-Place. Grand-Place Transport: Métro Bourse, De Brouckère or Gare Centrale. Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles Tel: [phone]. Fax: (02): 279 4362. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, Dec 25) Admission: €3. Manneken-Pis The Rue de l’Etuve leads from the grandeur of Grand-Place to this allegory of irreverence and symbol of Bruxellois self-mockery – a bronze statuette of a urinating boy. If it were not for the occupation of the young child, the sculpture might resemble an angelic putto, such as the ones decorating the façade of the nearby Bourse (Stock Exchange), said to have been sculpted by Rodin. Jérôme Duquesnoy cast Manneken-Pis in the 1660s, perhaps as a reference to the peasant lads of legend, who extinguished fires with their urine. Manneken-Pis is regularly kitted out in a choice of some 500 outfits supplied by companies, charities and other organisations wishing to promote their name or brand. Rue de l’Etuve Transport: Métro Bourse. Place du Grand-Sablon Although the smartest square in town, the Place du Grand-Sablon remains laid-back. Notre-Dame du Sablon dominates the square. Although it began as a humble chapel for the guild of archers, the arrival of a statue of Mary (with reputed magical healing properties) from Antwerp, in 1348, dramatically increased its popularity. The building was expanded into an impressive Gothic church, which still hosts the annual Ommegang procession (see Cultural Events and Special Events). The area is a major centre for antiques dealers and hosts an busy antique and books market at the weekend. It is worth wandering around the Sablon district. Intriguing cul-de-sacs lead off from the square to shady spaces – such as the charming Impasse Saint-Jacques. The nearby Place du Petit-Sablon is a small, green square, surrounded by 48 bronze statuettes representing the 16th-century guilds, with larger statues at its heart, including the martyr-heroes, Egmont and Hornes, and Mercator, the cartographer. Place du Grand-Sablon Transport: Bus 20, 34, 48, 95 or 96; tram 92, 93 or 94. Notre-Dame du Sablon Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0930-1700, Sun 1300-1700. Admission: Free. Palais Royal (Royal Palace) Some of Brussels’ most opulent buildings and key attractions are clustered around the centrally located Parc de Bruxelles, a formal 1870s park with poker-straight tree-lined avenues and a central fountain. The southeast edge is graced by the Palais des Académies, a former residence of the Prince of Orange and Place du Trône, an impressive statue of Léopold II astride a horse. Nearby, Brussel’s Royal Palace and museums are congregated. Opposite the Parc de Bruxelles lies the Palais Royal, begun by King William I (1815–30) in the 19th century and later expanded by Léopold II. The royal family now resides in Laeken, in northern Brussels. However, the palace is still used as royal office and for state functions. From the end of July until early September, the palace, with its Throne Room, chandeliers, tapestries and gracious dining room, opens to the public. Rue Bredeorde 16 Tel: [phone]. Fax: [phone]. Website: www.monarchie.be/en/visit/palace/ Transport: Métro Trône or Parc; tram 92, 93 or 94; bus 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 60, 71, 95 or 96. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1030-1630 (mid Jul-mid Aug), times can vary due to official events. Information on [phone]. Admission: Free. Musée Belvue (Belvue Museum) Re-opened in July 2005 to coincide with Belgium’s 175th anniversary celebrations after major re-modelling work, the Musee Belvue is dedicated to the 12 major periods of the country’s history. The exhibitions are themed around the reigns of each of the country’s 12 monarchs. The building itself is located at the scene of the 1830 Belgian Revolution which led to the establishment of an independent state. Hôtel Bellevue, Place des Palais 7 Tel: [phone]. Fax: [phone]. E-mail: [e-mail] Website: www.belvue.be Transport: Métro Trône, Porte de Namur or Parc; tram 92, 93 or 94; bus 38, 60, 71. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (Jun-Sep), Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Oct-May). Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, Dec 25. Admission: €3; concessions available. Muséum des Sciences Naturelles (Natural Sciences Museum) Close to the European Parliament and containing what is claimed to be one of the finest dinosaur collections in the world (‘starring’ the iguanadons of Bernissart) this fascinating museum additionally features a special presentation on the Arctic and Antarctic regions. There is an extensive permanent marine mammals exhibition. All forms of wildlife, extinct and extant, plus mineralogy, are represented here. Rue Vautier 29 Tel: [phone]. Fax: [phone]. Website: www.naturalsciences.be Transport: Métro Maelbeek, Trône; bus 34, 80. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1645, Sat-Sun 1000-1800. Admission: €4; concessions available; free first Wed of the month from 1300. Musée du Cinquantenaire (Royal Museums of Art and History) Everything conceived by Léopold II was on a grandiose scale and the Parc du Cinquantenaire, built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Belgian independence, is no exception. The Musée de l’Armée, situated in the north wing, has an interesting display of vintage aircraft and free entrance. However, the Musée du Cinquantenaire, formerly known as the Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire (Royal Art and History Museums), is the major draw card of the area. Boasting collections from five continents, ranging from prehistory to the present, it includes Art Nouveau furniture designed by Victor Horta and fine examples of centuries-old lace. Comic strip fans might find some pieces familiar – the large Egyptian collection was the source of inspiration for Belgium’s artists, including Hergé. Parc du Cinquantenaire 10 Tel: [phone]. Fax: [phone]. E-mail: [e-mail] Website: www.kmkg-mrah.be Transport: Train/métro Mérode or Schuman; tram 81 or 82 (to Mérode); bus 21, 67, 80. Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0930-1700, Sat-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: €4; free first Wed of the month 1300-1700. Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Belgian Royal Museums of Fine Art) The most important of Belgium’s museum complexes is located close to Place Royal. It boasts two rich museums, their collections ranging from the 14th century to the modern day – the Musée d’Art Ancien (Museum of Ancient Art), housed in the former court of Charles de Lorraine, and the underground Musée d’Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art), inaugurated in 1984. The Musée d’Art Ancien (also known as the Museum of Fine Arts) excels in its collection of the Old Masters, with works by Rubens, Bouts and Memling. Collections of Brueghel the Elder and Younger and Hieronymus Bosch are small, as Belgium’s foreign masters took most of these treasures away with them. A passageway leads to Musée d’Art Moderne, with its splendid collection of the Belgian Surrealists. René Magritte is given pride of place, although the haunting works of Paul Delvaux are also of interest. Picasso, Chagall, Henry Moore and Francis Bacon are also represented. Rue de la Régence 3 Tel: [phone]. Fax: [phone]. E-mail: [e-mail] Website: www.fine-arts-museum.be Transport: Gare Centrale; tram 92, 93 or 94 (to Royale); bus 20, 38. 60, 71, 95 or 96 (to Royale). Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission: €5; free first Wed of the month from 1300.